French active-ingredient manufacturer Silab has introduced Metallomia, a detoxifying cosmetic active developed specifically for menopausal skin. According to the company, the ingredient is designed around a deficiency in ferritinophagy — the process that governs the controlled release of iron to meet cellular needs — that Silab identified in menopausal skin through a new modelling study.
Silab states that the shortfall in ferritinophagy observed during menopause reduces the amount of bioavailable iron, which in turn drives premature skin ageing. The company calls this phenomenon metallo-ageing. UV radiation is said to amplify it: exposure favours the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, leading to a massive and uncontrolled release of iron and, consequently, to significant oxidative stress. In Silab's account, menopausal skin therefore faces two distinct iron-related stresses: too little bioavailable iron, and, under UV, too much free iron.
How the active is positioned
Metallomia is presented as acting on both sides of that mechanism. By relaunching ferritinophagy in menopausal skin, it is intended to facilitate the provision of iron and to re-activate the main epidermal functions. By reducing iron/ferritin complexes, the ingredient is also designed to limit oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV. The positioning is therefore upstream, on the handling of iron, rather than on a single visible sign of ageing.
Results reported by Silab
Silab reports that this targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-ageing and cites volunteer studies for the following observations, which are the company's own findings:
- From 14 days, the skin of Caucasian volunteers was described as revitalised, with a reinforced skin barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion.
- In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were reported to be significantly reduced after 28 days.
- Applied by Caucasian volunteers before UV exposure, the ingredient prevented lipid peroxidation, and the appearance of redness was limited within hours of exposure.
Sourcing and formulation
For Metallomia, Silab focused on the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages, and set up a traced supply chain with French partners. The supply has been validated against the criteria of the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated by DNA barcoding. To use the root's mucilage content, the company developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides.
Metallomia is a patented active recommended for all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. It is supplied as an aqueous solution, which the company describes as easy to formulate. Silab states that it complies with biodiversity regulations, has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128, and meets international cosmetics regulations in markets including Europe, the United States, China and Japan.